Gua bao was a go-to snack for Erchen ... “They’re filled with one big slab of pork because a lot of Taiwanese love the ratio of melting fat and soft meat in one mouthful.” ...

But its namesake dish is gua bao, the fluffy and foldable steamed buns ... and this one was particularly satisfying, with the big umami flavor from the shiitake and the five-spice seasoning.