Ancient Rome blends once more with Catholicism at Santa Maria in Trastevere, the neighbourhood’s main church. Look away from the glittering, 13th-century mosaics and you’ll see 22 hulking ...

Literally meaning ‘the other side of the Tevere (Tiber River)’, Trastevere is one of the most historic neighbourhoods of Rome ... deli shop has just turned a century old and is still where ...

On one wall is what remains of what was possibly Rome’s greatest 13th-century fresco – a Last Judgement by little-known genius Pietro Cavallini. With its rainbow-winged angels of all ranks and ...