The restaurant – and its larger Hawthorn offshoot, where there’s a more extensive fusion menu – is run by Wong’s daughter, Doris, who set aside her midwifery career, and her husband, Chung Yew Wai, ...

When we met chef Simpson Wong in front of his restaurant in New York City's West ... "If I’m tasting a teaspoon of the sauce at a time, by the end of the night I would have consumed about a whole ...