I had my first taste of Afghan mantu — steamed meat dumplings ... spiced lentil sauce and then dolloped with yogurt and sprinkled with parsley. I kept thinking about how I could spoon ...

pan-fried eggplant with yogurt and mint, and savory soybean balls in a rich tomato sauce with garlic and other spices make for a well-rounded menu. Then there’s the mantu, the rose-shaped dumpli ...